2/16/2015

Tine Inspires: Brazilian Pattern Magazines

Maybe you've already seen it on Instagram? My uncle brought me these Brazilian sewing magazines from his recent trip to Brazil. They are from December and January and feature quite a vast range of patterns- even some bathing suits and bikinis again. I also found some cute tops, shorts and dresses. So far I didn't manage to actually sew anything from the Brazilian magazines that I got, so I'm not quite sure about the fit, but I might give them a try this year. I plan on making one or two pretty dresses this year, therefore I might find a sexy dress in there. My posts about the old issues are some of the most read posts on this blog, so I hope that next weekend I'll get around to take some pictures of the fashion spreads in the magazines.

2/15/2015

Tine Sews: The Grey Coat

Last weekend I recovered from a night out with colleagues that lasted until 4 am and when I was done with running errants, I started sewing in the afternoon. I had already cut the pieces for the grey coat from my beloved Wool Mix Ede fabric and only had to sew the parts together. 
Then on Sunday I met with a friend to have brunch in the Hafencity in Hamburg and after that we strolled along the Speicherstadt in the most beautiful weather. That's where we took the picture above.
The grey coat is from a pattern mash-up, that I did myself. I used the bodice an sleeves of Burda 128 9/2002 and combined it with the collar and front of Burda 127 9/2002. I figured that, since the patterns are from the same issue, there shouldn't be a problem with matching the parts and apart from the fact that the front pieces where 5 cm longer than the bodice of 128 I could easily combine the two. I drafted a lining from the pattern pieces, but eliminated some seams.
The jacket fron has to diagonal seams that feature pockets. It's a bit weird, that they are lower in the fron than in the side, because it's a bit strange to put your hands in. But it works. And they are the perfect size to store a tablet or keys.
I love the biker jacket feel of the jacket and think that the cream zipper is a nice touch. I could've used a shorter zipper, since I always have to leave the zip a tad bit open to get a smooth collar, but I will think about that, when I use the pattern a second time. I'm dreaming of a red or pink version now.
They feature a diagonal seam in the front, which include a pocket. The pocket is the perfect size to store a tablet or keys. It's a bit strange that they are higher on the side than on the front and first I thought, that it would be strange to put my hands in, but it works.
As on my trenchcoat I have the same issue with a weird pulling on the back. I really need to find the cause of that to be able to change future projects accordingly.
I had the problem that the collar was slightly longer than the back, so I just made a pleat there. It looked weird, when it was open, so I did some handstitching to tack the pleat down. I have to remember cutting the back pieces less wide next time.
The collar is quite wide and topstitched along the edges.The front is fused with fusible interfacing to give it a little more body. There is topstitching along the zipper as well.

The length is just right, only the sleeves could be about three centimentres longer. But I cut the lining on the sleeves a tid bit short when I bagged the lining and so I have to live with it. It's okay, but could be better.
Detail shot of the back, with the top stitching along the pleat.
I thought about adding a coat hanger this time. So much more practical than without.
I hope you like the coat as much as I do! I've worn it almost every day since I finished it and it's perfect it the current chilly weather.

2/08/2015

Tine Sews: The Pink Metallic Trenchcoat

Okay, so I finally got around to take decent pictures of the trenchcoat, that I made during AnNäherung 2015. Please excuse the picture overload, but I just hat to document all the pretty details. 

At first I planned to do the bodice in pink metallic, but leave the sleeves with the right side of the fabric, which is more of a black shade. But then Heidy helped me to decide and on her advice I did the sleeves in the pink shade too and just do the accent tabs on the sleeve in black. I'm really lucky about that decision. We also decided that only the small accents like shoulder tabs and front tab should be in black and all the other pieces in pink.

This is how I wore the coat on the day, after I finished it. I managed to do the whole construction of the coat on the weekend and only had to attach the buttons on the evening, when I returned from Bielefeld. But my colleagues demanded that I wore the finished coat on Monday and so I sewed the fourteen buttons until the late evening.
I'm closing the front in the way of a mens coat, because it works better with the collar and the gun flap. Also, the trench is originally a menswear piece, so why not do it the mens way?
I can wear the trench with a belt, but I prefer it actually without. I think its a good shape and I still haven't found the perfect belt closure, so I can't really belt it anyway.
Also the back looks a little bit strange, when I belt the coat. I had lots of discussion on what to do with the strange pulling of the back under the arms and on the back. I inserted shoulder pads, which Mema kindly brought me and it's better than at the beginning, but it's still pulling strangely. I have the problem with another coat too and I don't know what's wrong with my back. Any ideas?
 Maybe it's coming from the hips? Is it too tight there?
 Here I'm wearing the coat belted.
I'm wearing the coat in these pictures with my me-made jeans and a pair of boots from Bon Prix. The red socks are me-made too.
Here you can see the fabric really nicely. It's a denim and the black side is the right side and the pink metallic one the wrong side. I wanted the pink to be really shiny, so I used the wrong as the right side. The material is cotton and polyester. It's a twill weave. Unfortunately the fabric is sold out already and can't be reordered. I still have enough leftover to make a matching bag.
The pattern is from Burda and it's the classic trench from an issue of 2010. I still had the issue in my stash and traced a 42, that I then cut with seam allowance. The fit is true to size and if there wasn't the problem with the back, I'd definitely make it again. If there is any advice, I might take the Burberry inspiration further and make it in an African wax print again.
On the hanger the back looks good! Maybe it's the shape of my back, which is the problem? I have dropping shoulders, but that can't be the only reason for the pulling, could it be?
I lined the coat with a black acetate lining. I did the sleeves the proper way and learned a new technique which is called "shaking hands" from Wiebke.
The buttons have their own story. I got them off Ebay, where my brother ordered them for me, as I still don't have an Ebay account. They are metallic bronze buttons and they were the cheapest I could find. For this coat the instructions said that I needed 16 buttons. I found some very pretty ones at work, but they were quite expensive, if you nedd 16 of them. So I checked out different shops and even drove especially to a shop in Hamburg, only to find out they're not open on a Saturday. So I found these and still have some buttons leftover, if there should ever go one missing.
I hope you like the trenchcoat as much as I do. I can't wait for spring temperatures to be finally able to wear it more often. It's okay on mild days with a sweater, but it should be perfect in March and April.

2/02/2015

Tine Thinks: About Wardrobe Planning (Or Not)

The first month of the year 2015 is over and in the beginning I wrote about my plans to edit down my wardrobe and find a way of making things, but being thoughtful about what I want to make. Then I attended the sewing weekend and made a pink metallic trenchcoat. Consider this a staple! 
It might be not your typical staple, that you reach to over and over again, but I've worn this thing quite a lot already. It might be more of a statement coat than a coat you wear with everything, but anytime I wear this trench, I think of the sewing weekend and the many women who helped me make it and the compliments I got about it.
If you want to have a better look at the coat, that I'm still due to take detail pictures of, check it out on "my" work blog.

Anyway, how did the editing of my wardrobe work out? I have to confess, I didn't start yet. It's the same with my resolution for 2015 to go swimming twice a month. So far I've been zero times.
BUT I'm very proud of myself, because I did edit my fabric stash. It was really interesting to find some fabrics, that I didn't even know I once aquired them. Oups..

And I started with a project that has been on my mind for quite a while - a grey wool coat. It's already cut and I only need to get some interfusing and hopefully be able to assemble it on the weekend. It shouldn't be too complicated to fit, as it's a boxy shape with raglan sleeves.
The pattern is a mix of two patterns from a twelve year old Burda. I just found that there is someone in my area who sells old Burda issues from the 90s and I'm contemplating about checking them out. What do you think?

1/19/2015

Tine Travels: AnNäherung 2015 in Bielefeld

On the weekend I attended a very fun event - the AnNäherung 2015. For those who are not familiar with the German language, "Nähen" is the German word for sewing and the title of the event is a word play, mixing sewing and the word approaching, which is in German "Annäherung". Got it?

I had the pleasure to visit the AnNäherung 2014 last year and therefore I was in the circle of people who had a priority to apply for the tickets. Due to the size of the room, where the event takes place, the sewing-meet-up is only open for up to 40 people and so I was very lucky to be one of them - and I'll be one of them in 2016 as well. Maybe I'll meet you there? Check out the blogs of Miriam, Susi and Alex, who organize the meet-up and you'll find out if there are tickets left.
I chose a Burda pattern from September 2010, which is a classic trenchcoat. My inspiration were the metallic trenchcoats from Burberry Spring/Summer 2013, which I adored since I saw them on the runway. In the assortment of www.myfabrics.co.uk I found the perfect fabric, so I knew this would be a great match.
My fabric is a little bit less shiny, but has got a metallic sheen as well. I didn't get around to take decent pictures yet, but the coat definitely deserves its own outfit post. This post should only be about the event.
I arrived on Friday evening, due to a missed train connection a little later than expected, but when I arrived the introduction had only started and I didn't miss too much. Though I plan to take a day off from work for next year, because I'll be able to check the fabric outlet in Verl then.

After the introduction, where everybody shared their reason for sewing and the idea for the projects they wanted to tackle during the weekend, everybody started preparations and sewing. I went to bed at 1am, but I heard of people who stayed up until 3am sewing and chatting.

The next day after breakfast sewing continued, with a lot of cursing and unpicking of seams from my part. It's been a while since I made a coat or jacket and also I stuck to the same patterns, where I knew the directions by heart in the last months, so it took a while until I got the directions from Burda.

The armhole was a bit tight and I had to unpick and redo the armhole quite a few times. Also, I learned from Sybille, that, if Burda says "ease the armhole" they really mean "ease the armhole" and you shouldn't skip this step due to lack of knowledge on how to do it. But with her help I managed to do it. Thanks Sybille!

Mema brought some shoulderpads the next day to improve the fit in the shoulder and on Sunday in the afternoon the only thing missing on my coat were the buttons. I even managed to insert the lining without a problem and the inside of the coat looks very neat.


This is during the presentation of the finished garment at the end of the weekend. The coat was still missing buttons, which I added in the evening, when I was back at home. I wore the coat to work today and felt great. It's a great outfit to wear with skinny jeans and boots.

1/11/2015

Tine Sews: Heart On The Sleeve

Even though I work in fabric heaven, I still like to shop offline and after christmas I went to the department store I always got my fabrics from, when I was in school. Funny thing is, that even eight years later, the same sales assistants work there and the selection is either a hit or miss. I actually worked for the supplier of the fabrics some years ago during university and I might have a look, if I find the fabrics online and then I'll link them for you.

This time it was a hit and I took home two fabrics, which were both less than 5 € a metre. One of them is a black and white viscose fabric, which is printed in a border print with hearts.

The other one was a mustard yellow corduroy. I immediately had the outfit in mind, that you see on the bottom of the post.

I used my trusted free pattern from The Great British Sewing Bee book(German edition), which I can highly recommend. This time I added a little more seam allowance and sewed it with my regular machine, then I finished the seams with my overlocker. I found that, if you see a light fabric only with the overlocker, the seams tend to open at some places. I don't know if that's a mistake of my machine or if that's normal?
The neckline is finished with bias tape and I also added a little tape, to mark the back.
The border print is so pretty. I got 1.5 metres and needed only about 1 m. I cut the sleeves full length first, but than decided, that it looks better with three quarter sleeves.
Pairing it with heart printed tights, of course! I love this look and can't wait to wear it out and about.

If you fancy sewing something similar, here are some suggestions for fabrics:

Fine Corduroy 12 Black & White Little Viscose Dots
Note: Yes, at work I'm paid to say good things about the products from www.myfabrics.co.uk

*, but I also would say them, if I didn't. The opinions stated in this post are totally my own.

* Yes, I use the affiliate program that is offered by myfabrics. You should check it out too!

1/09/2015

Tine Thinks: Wardrobe Planning

I have a big wardrobe, not just figuratively speaking, but also definitely proven. The wardrobe of mine covers a wall in my bedroom. The wall is about 3.2 metres long and the wardrobe is separated into four compartments, that go up to the ceiling.

This is one - small - part of the dress, skirt and blouse section.


I didn't buy this wardrobe, I incurred it from the former tenant of my flat. She must have been a well dressed lady too. I actually also adopted a couple of vintage dresses from her wardrobe, though I haven't worn them yet. But the fabrics are lovely and one of the dresses will definitely get altered into two new garments this year.

Which brings me to wardrobe planning for 2015!

So far, I sewed whatever was on my mind. I found a cute fabric with a nice print, thought of a pattern that I could use and then made the garment. Only later I started to think, if there was any garment that I could combine it with. This means that I ended up with a lot of great pieces, but a very diverse wardrobe. I do have the rock'n'roll chique biker jacket and skinny jeans, but I also have the elegant blouse and wrap dress in DvF-style.
So far I love them all, but I tend to wear only a minority of the pieces that's in my wardrobe. Which brings me to the question if I still need any new clothes? And what do I do with all the pieces that don't combine well?
I already started last year to sew more basic items, like my black skinny jeans or the flared bell bottoms or the black mini skirt. So far so good. But what should I add to my wardrobe in 2015? I actually have enough blouses and bottoms and dresses and jackets. Maybe I should stop making anything?
I like travelling, because it gives me a chance to only pack my favourite items and wear this capsule collection.

But I love to sew and I love to try out new different styles, so I will never give up making new garments. Like really, never! Unless I won't ever get my sewing machine back. That machine is already at the shop for more that three weeks, because a part of the reverse has to be changed and the delivery of the spare part takes ages from the supplier. Fingers crossed, that the machine will be back for the sewing weekend in seven days!

Therefore I decided that I need to tackle this part of my life strategically and set myself a goal. Goals are always good, right? You can measure them and you can use them as a guide.

So, my goals for 2015 are:

Stop shopping for fabrics, unless I have used three fabrics that are already in my stash.
Edit the garments that are already in the wardrobe. Sell or donate anything that I don't like anymore.
Withstand the seduction of working at a fabric retailer. Really! Let other customers be the lucky recipients of the last metre of the much reduced dream fabric, that I found on myfabrics.co.uk. My pleasure!

See, that was easy! Now I have a list of goals, that I can look back to. I think I should actually print this out and carry it in my wallet. Like the pattern leaflet, that I carry with myself to always know, how much to buy for a certain pattern. I think I haven't blogged about that yet, did I? Note to myself: New blogpost idea!

Because I'm currently without the regular sewing machine as stated above, I think I'm gonna start with the editing of my wardrobe. Also, I want to gather ideas on how to style the garments that I already have. And I want to dig deeper into my actual style and find a coherent line.

Lots of plans, lots of ideas, I guess I better get going!

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